reverb pan mounting position: opinions?

dp

Joined: Feb 26, 2006
Posts: 3545
mojave desert, california
United States

Posted on Apr 15 2006 05:47 PM

hello reverb people:

I am seeking opinions about how to mount the reverb pan inside of the Fender re-issue unit.

stock, from the factory, the reverb pan is mounted vertically against the front of the unit. a push-bar holds the pan in place against the front of the unit during transportation. The push bar is disengaged and the pan floats on springmounts during operation/performance.

has anyone here mounted the reverb pan in a different location? What were the benefits and/or results? Is it worth the bother?

I was considering mounting the reverb pan horizontally across the bottom of the enclosure. Additionally, I was considering mounting the reverb pan inside of a tolex isolation bag. I noticed over at the Weber kit-build site that they mount their reverb pans horizontally across the bottom of the unit.

My thoughts were that the springs within the pan might last longer, and maybe sound better mounted horizontally...but, maybe they would flop and boing around annoyingly during trasportation in the back of the Jeep?

what do you think?

-dp

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WR

Joined: Feb 27, 2006
Posts: 3832
netherlands
2 Link Pins

Posted on Apr 24 2006 07:23 AM

hey DP, just saw no one replied to this yet

this has been discussed on the fender forum and a dutch guitar froum (in dutch, no use to you, sorry) to some extend.

a lot of people screw down their pans on teh bottom of the cab. the reason they do this, let me paraphrase: 'it makes the reverb sound more like natural room accoustics, and gets rid of that annoying metalic dripping sound'

stupid blues people, leave those tanks alone, for crying out loud. they're on the weber forums too. surf people with weber tanks mount the pan on spring posts, to the front.

you'd want to keep it on the springs i guess.

as far as mounting position, i don 't know what the fender ri takes, but my two tanks both have the 'mount horizontally' type, both are screwed to the front (hence vertically) one spring posts, and it gives me no problems.

as far as the locking goes, fender never saw the need to build a lock on reverb pans in combos, so if you screw the pan down no lock would be needed i guess. it's the extra hang-up mechanism that makes it need the locking device, appearantly.

my two cents, i 'd leave the ri unit as is. if you have any kind of problem with the sound, the better solution will be somewhere else.

WR

—

Rules to live by #314:
"When in Italy, if the menu says something's grilled, don't assume it is."

https://www.facebook.com/The-Malbehavers-286429584796173/

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dp

Joined: Feb 26, 2006
Posts: 3545
mojave desert, california
United States

Posted on Apr 24 2006 10:36 AM

WR:

I did some more research since I posted this...and I think you are right.

Those reverb pans have "orientation codes" on them which tells which plane to mount them. The Fender reverb pan is a vertical pan.

I'll just leave it alone...it works fine, don't fix it...

-dp

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WR

Joined: Feb 27, 2006
Posts: 3832
netherlands
2 Link Pins

Posted on Apr 24 2006 01:01 PM

dp
The Fender reverb pan is a vertical pan.

-dp

intersting, i wondered about that - all the 6g15 knock off builders seem to be using the normal fender amp tray for hriziontal mountng
WR

—

Rules to live by #314:
"When in Italy, if the menu says something's grilled, don't assume it is."

https://www.facebook.com/The-Malbehavers-286429584796173/

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TooLShedd

Joined: Feb 27, 2006
Posts: 51

Posted on May 01 2006 10:19 AM

If you look at the last character of the reverb pan part number the letter indicates how the pan was intended to be mounted...

Mounting Plane
A = Horizontal, Open Side Up
B = Horizontal, Open Side Down
C = Vertical, Connectors Up
D = Vertical, Connectors Down
E = On End, Input Up
F = On End, Output Up

Information swiped from...
http://www.ampwares.com/reverb_codes.html
very useful for finding out what to order if you want to get a "Sproingier" replacement tank.

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MikeG

Joined: Mar 29, 2006
Posts: 309
Springfield, Oregon

Posted on May 01 2006 11:04 AM

^Thank you for that excellent information.

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dp

Joined: Feb 26, 2006
Posts: 3545
mojave desert, california
United States

Posted on May 01 2006 11:11 AM

the reason for the "orientation codes" is that each design takes into account the effect of gravity on the internal springs and transducers: a vertical pan is optimized for that orientation, a horizontal pan is optimized for its mount.

Each "orientation" has a certain amount of spring-give engineered into its design.

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WR

Joined: Feb 27, 2006
Posts: 3832
netherlands
2 Link Pins

Posted on May 01 2006 02:12 PM

woud you happen to know what would make it more 'sproingy'? I had a type nine in a former amp, but didn't like it at all.

now what I'd really like is a vintage hammond/gibbs tank ....

TooLShedd
If you look at the last character of the reverb pan part number the letter indicates how the pan was intended to be mounted...

Mounting Plane
A = Horizontal, Open Side Up
B = Horizontal, Open Side Down
C = Vertical, Connectors Up
D = Vertical, Connectors Down
E = On End, Input Up
F = On End, Output Up

Information swiped from...
http://www.ampwares.com/reverb_codes.html
very useful for finding out what to order if you want to get a "Sproingier" replacement tank.

—

Rules to live by #314:
"When in Italy, if the menu says something's grilled, don't assume it is."

https://www.facebook.com/The-Malbehavers-286429584796173/

Top

TooLShedd

Joined: Feb 27, 2006
Posts: 51

Posted on May 01 2006 02:28 PM

WR
woud you happen to know what would make it more 'sproingy'? I had a type nine in a former amp, but didn't like it at all.

The things you could try changing for more boing are The number of springs (Reverb Type) and the length of Decay time. You should try keeping the other specs as close to the original as possible.

I have a Peavey Delta Blues that was pretty useless reverb-wise. It had a 2 spring long and I replaced it with a 3 spring long. It improved the sound of the reverb but I have to keep it down as there is (and I know this is a horrible thing to say) too much reverb at higher levels.

If you don't like the 3 spring you could try a 2 spring with Medium or Long Decay time (if you currently have a short decay time, most I've seen installed have been Medium already.) I've never tried that myself but I have a feeling that the Long Decay would be a bit much especially on a amp/unit without a Dwell knob.

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WR

Joined: Feb 27, 2006
Posts: 3832
netherlands
2 Link Pins

Posted on May 01 2006 03:02 PM

type nine is the three-spring type, - three instead of 2 makes the reverb less drippy (tho deeper) - decay time I 've never experimented with.

i was only asking hypothetically tho, I 'm pretty stisfied with both my tanks with stock tray, but i find this stuff intersting - always good to learn about the stuff you use

WR

—

Rules to live by #314:
"When in Italy, if the menu says something's grilled, don't assume it is."

https://www.facebook.com/The-Malbehavers-286429584796173/

Top

dp Joined: Feb 26, 2006 Posts: 3545 mojave desert, california	Posted on Apr 15 2006 05:47 PM hello reverb people: I am seeking opinions about how to mount the reverb pan inside of the Fender re-issue unit. stock, from the factory, the reverb pan is mounted vertically against the front of the unit. a push-bar holds the pan in place against the front of the unit during transportation. The push bar is disengaged and the pan floats on springmounts during operation/performance. has anyone here mounted the reverb pan in a different location? What were the benefits and/or results? Is it worth the bother? I was considering mounting the reverb pan horizontally across the bottom of the enclosure. Additionally, I was considering mounting the reverb pan inside of a tolex isolation bag. I noticed over at the Weber kit-build site that they mount their reverb pans horizontally across the bottom of the unit. My thoughts were that the springs within the pan might last longer, and maybe sound better mounted horizontally...but, maybe they would flop and boing around annoyingly during trasportation in the back of the Jeep? what do you think? -dp Top
WR Joined: Feb 27, 2006 Posts: 3832 netherlands	Posted on Apr 24 2006 07:23 AM hey DP, just saw no one replied to this yet this has been discussed on the fender forum and a dutch guitar froum (in dutch, no use to you, sorry) to some extend. a lot of people screw down their pans on teh bottom of the cab. the reason they do this, let me paraphrase: 'it makes the reverb sound more like natural room accoustics, and gets rid of that annoying metalic dripping sound' stupid blues people, leave those tanks alone, for crying out loud. they're on the weber forums too. surf people with weber tanks mount the pan on spring posts, to the front. you'd want to keep it on the springs i guess. as far as mounting position, i don 't know what the fender ri takes, but my two tanks both have the 'mount horizontally' type, both are screwed to the front (hence vertically) one spring posts, and it gives me no problems. as far as the locking goes, fender never saw the need to build a lock on reverb pans in combos, so if you screw the pan down no lock would be needed i guess. it's the extra hang-up mechanism that makes it need the locking device, appearantly. my two cents, i 'd leave the ri unit as is. if you have any kind of problem with the sound, the better solution will be somewhere else. WR — Rules to live by #314: "When in Italy, if the menu says something's grilled, don't assume it is." https://www.facebook.com/The-Malbehavers-286429584796173/ Top
dp Joined: Feb 26, 2006 Posts: 3545 mojave desert, california	Posted on Apr 24 2006 10:36 AM WR: I did some more research since I posted this...and I think you are right. Those reverb pans have "orientation codes" on them which tells which plane to mount them. The Fender reverb pan is a vertical pan. I'll just leave it alone...it works fine, don't fix it... -dp Top
WR Joined: Feb 27, 2006 Posts: 3832 netherlands	Posted on Apr 24 2006 01:01 PM dp The Fender reverb pan is a vertical pan. -dp intersting, i wondered about that - all the 6g15 knock off builders seem to be using the normal fender amp tray for hriziontal mountng WR — Rules to live by #314: "When in Italy, if the menu says something's grilled, don't assume it is." https://www.facebook.com/The-Malbehavers-286429584796173/ Top
TooLShedd Joined: Feb 27, 2006 Posts: 51	Posted on May 01 2006 10:19 AM If you look at the last character of the reverb pan part number the letter indicates how the pan was intended to be mounted... Mounting Plane A = Horizontal, Open Side Up B = Horizontal, Open Side Down C = Vertical, Connectors Up D = Vertical, Connectors Down E = On End, Input Up F = On End, Output Up Information swiped from... http://www.ampwares.com/reverb_codes.html very useful for finding out what to order if you want to get a "Sproingier" replacement tank. Top
MikeG Joined: Mar 29, 2006 Posts: 309 Springfield, Oregon	Posted on May 01 2006 11:04 AM ^Thank you for that excellent information. Top
dp Joined: Feb 26, 2006 Posts: 3545 mojave desert, california	Posted on May 01 2006 11:11 AM the reason for the "orientation codes" is that each design takes into account the effect of gravity on the internal springs and transducers: a vertical pan is optimized for that orientation, a horizontal pan is optimized for its mount. Each "orientation" has a certain amount of spring-give engineered into its design. Top
WR Joined: Feb 27, 2006 Posts: 3832 netherlands	Posted on May 01 2006 02:12 PM woud you happen to know what would make it more 'sproingy'? I had a type nine in a former amp, but didn't like it at all. now what I'd really like is a vintage hammond/gibbs tank .... TooLShedd If you look at the last character of the reverb pan part number the letter indicates how the pan was intended to be mounted... Mounting Plane A = Horizontal, Open Side Up B = Horizontal, Open Side Down C = Vertical, Connectors Up D = Vertical, Connectors Down E = On End, Input Up F = On End, Output Up Information swiped from... http://www.ampwares.com/reverb_codes.html very useful for finding out what to order if you want to get a "Sproingier" replacement tank. — Rules to live by #314: "When in Italy, if the menu says something's grilled, don't assume it is." https://www.facebook.com/The-Malbehavers-286429584796173/ Top
TooLShedd Joined: Feb 27, 2006 Posts: 51	Posted on May 01 2006 02:28 PM WR woud you happen to know what would make it more 'sproingy'? I had a type nine in a former amp, but didn't like it at all. The things you could try changing for more boing are The number of springs (Reverb Type) and the length of Decay time. You should try keeping the other specs as close to the original as possible. I have a Peavey Delta Blues that was pretty useless reverb-wise. It had a 2 spring long and I replaced it with a 3 spring long. It improved the sound of the reverb but I have to keep it down as there is (and I know this is a horrible thing to say) too much reverb at higher levels. If you don't like the 3 spring you could try a 2 spring with Medium or Long Decay time (if you currently have a short decay time, most I've seen installed have been Medium already.) I've never tried that myself but I have a feeling that the Long Decay would be a bit much especially on a amp/unit without a Dwell knob. Top
WR Joined: Feb 27, 2006 Posts: 3832 netherlands	Posted on May 01 2006 03:02 PM type nine is the three-spring type, - three instead of 2 makes the reverb less drippy (tho deeper) - decay time I 've never experimented with. i was only asking hypothetically tho, I 'm pretty stisfied with both my tanks with stock tray, but i find this stuff intersting - always good to learn about the stuff you use WR — Rules to live by #314: "When in Italy, if the menu says something's grilled, don't assume it is." https://www.facebook.com/The-Malbehavers-286429584796173/ Top

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reverb pan mounting position: opinions?